Patrick and I recently camped overnight at the Garden of the Gods in southern Illinois’s Shawnee National Forest. We explored a bit, packed up our gear the next morning, and hit the road in the trusty Xterra.
But as an easily distracted photographer and explorer, I get sidetracked—and this trip was no different. We made it to Golconda, a small town on the Ohio River. At a stop near an intersection, I noticed a large green Sinclair dinosaur wearing a pink bonnet and bib. Home was to the right—but I couldn’t help wondering what was to the left.
I glanced at my passenger—sound asleep—and turned left.
Driving through Golconda’s main strip, I saw a familiar sight: a small-town main street lined with old brick row buildings and large glass storefronts. Many were empty or abandoned, though a few housed antique shops.
The road led down to the Ohio River. Trees lined the way, with picnic areas and campgrounds on the left overlooking the water. About a mile in, I noticed a brick tower built into the bluff—a structure that looked like a castle turret. Just beyond it, a row of homes likely had a stunning view of the river. The street itself was completely empty.
Naturally, I had to explore.
I pulled over and left the engine running. My son knows the drill: stay in the car, doors locked, honk if needed. We always keep each other in sight, exchanging periodic thumbs-ups.
I photographed the tower from several angles. Farther down the road, I found a small sign reading “Dam 51. Stop 22” from a local driving tour. It pointed me to golconda.oncell.com.
According to the tour:
“During the early twentieth century, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers began construction of a series of dams and boat locks at intervals along the Ohio River for flood control and navigation aids. At the entrance of the levee, you might have noticed the leaning gauge tower. It remains one of the few left on the Ohio River. You also passed the old pump house and castle tower. Few realize that this tower is an exact replica of the castle on the Corps of Engineers logo. It is engraved with the Corps' motto, 'Essayons'—meaning 'Let Us Try.' On the steps going down to the river, you can still see the gauge marks for measuring the height of the river.”
I was thrilled with the little side trip. I always seem to find the most interesting bits of history when I let myself get just a little bit lost.
Below is the Google Map location, if you want to visit for yourself.
